A Patrolling Road During the Joseon Dynasty
Despite being located in the bustling Jongno district of Seoul, Sulla-gil is unfamiliar even to residents of Seoul. Hidden in the back alleys of the busy Jongno 3-ga area along the walls of Jongmyo Shrine, where signs of the olden days can still be seen, Seosulla-gil was a guarded and patrolled area during the Joseon period. A cluster of coffee shops and restaurants that recently opened behind the winding Jongno Jewelry Alley is trending among young crowds. Visitors can take a serene walk along quiet stone-walled path that connects yesterday and today.
A Road Along the West Wall of Jongmyo Shrine
Amid the busy streets of Jongno is a quiet neighborhood where time seems to have stopped. The Seosulla-gil area sits by the western wall of Jongmyo Shrine, where ancestral tablets of kings
of the Joseon Dynasty are enshrined. The patrolling system during Joseon was called “Sulla,” hence the area east of Jongmyo Shrine was referred to as “Dongsulla-gil,” which literally translates to East Sulla Roads, and the area west of the Shrine was “Seosulla-gil,” or West Sulla Roads.
The reason why such historically valuable area was not well known was because Seosulla-gil passed through the Gwonnong-dong and Bongik-dong neighborhoods of Jongno-gu. During the Joseon era, the farming fields and authorities that supplied vegetables to the palace were located in Gwonnong-dong and Bongik-dong, and it was also where maids and eunuchs of the palace lived. However, after the fall of the Joseon Dynasty, and during the Japanese colonial era, the neighborhood deteriorated. Around 1995, nearby areas were cleaned up and developed to rediscover today’s Seosulla-gil.
A Road Along the West Wall of Jongmyo Shrine
Amid the busy streets of Jongno is a quiet neighborhood where time seems to have stopped. The Seosulla-gil area sits by the western wall of Jongmyo Shrine, where ancestral tablets of kings
of the Joseon Dynasty are enshrined.
The patrolling system during Joseon was called “Sulla,” hence the area east of Jongmyo Shrine was referred to as “Dongsulla-gil,” which literally translates to East Sulla Roads, and the area west of the Shrine was “Seosulla-gil,” or West Sulla Roads.
A Road Along the West Wall of Jongmyo Shrine
Amid the busy streets of Jongno is a quiet neighborhood where time seems to have stopped. The Seosulla-gil area sits by the western wall of Jongmyo Shrine, where ancestral tablets of kings
of the Joseon Dynasty are enshrined. The patrolling system during Joseon was called “Sulla,” hence the area east of Jongmyo Shrine was referred to as “Dongsulla-gil,” which literally translates to East Sulla Roads, and the area west of the Shrine was “Seosulla-gil,” or West Sulla Roads.
Address│Gwonnong-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul
→ │5-minute walk from Exit 7 of Jongno 3-ga Station, Seoul Subway Line 1 or 3
NEARBY TOURIST ATTRACTIONS
Jongmyo Shrine
Changdeokgung Palace
Ikseon-dong Hanok Street
Café Sasa
This hanok café serves new interpretations of traditional desserts and drinks. Their signature menu is the Sasa Set Menu, which includes non-alcoholic makgeolli (unrefined rice wine) and oven-baked garaetteok (rice cake stick).
Solbangul Bakery
This hanok bakery serves freshly baked
breads and buns every morning. They
use organic flour, and popular menus
include Ssal Ssukddeokssukddeok
(rice and mugwort rice cake), Cheese
Cassava, and Banana Pudding.
Heritage Club
This is a café + bar that serves coffee during day and whiskey at night. The glass ceiling is meant to provide a “comfortable rest in a courtyard.” The Apple Cinnamon Latte made with their homemade apple syrup is a must-try, and after sundown, you can relax with a whiskey on the rocks.
Daramgee
This Korean-style pub serves modern reinterpretations of traditional alcoholic drinks like Yosae Rosé (Today’s Rosé) and Oraedoen Norae (Old Song), as well as fusion Korean dishes like Tohajeot (salted freshwater shrimp) Oil Pasta and Grilled Sundae (blood sausage).
Ida
This restaurant specializes in Korean dishes cooked using fresh seasonal ingredients, traditional Korean alcoholic drinks and natural wines. Flatfish Ceviche is a popular choice. The 2nd floor offers superb views.
Sullagil
This skate fish restaurant at the end of
Seosulla-gil has been serving diners
for nearly 30 years. Guests can try
skate in diverse ways, such as raw,
braised, and stewed, or as samhap
(skate, pork, and kimchi combo). Other
menus include gochujang gulbi (dried
yellow croaker) and nakji bokkeum
(stir-fried octopus).
TIP│The Seoul Intangible Cultural Heritage Center near Seosulla-gil is a training center for Korean traditional arts and crafts designated by the Seoul Metropolitan Government. Various traditional cultures can be seen, and foreign tourists can participate in various one-day classes, such as making traditional cocktails, making silver rings, traditional dyeing, and more.
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